Subah-e-Benares
Subah-e-Banaras, literally translating to - 'a morning in Benaras', can be the most moving experience of your life, you can ever imagine to have!
Essentially speaking, it is a 45-minute-long Ganga Aarti that takes place at Assi Ghat and is an offering of prayer to both the Sun God and the holy river Ganga followed by a live performance by artists from different gharanas, concluding with yoga.
My hotel was right at Assi Ghat so I was lucky to experience the soul-stirring Subh-e-Benares on all four days, (barring the Maha Sankranti one, when I took the holy dip in the Ganges to hopefully absolve myself of my sins. haha).
After the aarti, as the Sun would rise over this beautiful city of lights, I would head out to explore the ghats - either on foot or by boat.
The two ghats I found quite fascinating were - Manikarnika and Harishchandra. It's said that the pyre at these two ghats is always ablaze. The belief is that if you are cremated in Kashi (Varanasi), you are separated from the cycle of reincarnation and you attain Moksha, the ultimate liberation of the soul.
While on the boat ride, I'd hear a symphony of temple bells around the ghats, signaling that the city was up and about its morning rituals. Devout devotees would be taking a morning dip in the holy river and praying to the Sun.
Sometimes I'd just venture out on foot to explore the beautiful alleys of Varanasi. On one such occasion, I stumbled upon Goswami Tulsidasji's abode gifted to him by Raja Todarmal. As expected it was forbidden to take pictures but I brought with me the memory of my hour-long conversation with the priest there, and countless anecdotes about Tulsidas Ji's life.
The city sure rubs its magic on anyone visiting it for the first time or inhabiting it over countless generations.
To summarize, a lot of cities are known for their nightlife, but Varanasi is different! The mornings here are magical. Full of action! No wonder, the people here go about diligently practicing their rituals before getting on with their lives - something that’s beautifully symbolic of how this city manages to not only stay relevant but also be revered over so many centuries.
